Restaurants in Belgrade
Belgrade’s restaurants used to be a bit stuffy and old-fashioned, but these days the city’s culinary scene is developing fast. Mixing the country’s many different influences, including Mediterranean, Ottoman and Balkan, the Serb capital boasts increasingly gastronomic locales alongside the more traditional restaurants.
The restaurants below have been grouped into three pricing categories:
Expensive (over RSD1,250)
Moderate (RSD800 to RSD1,250)
Cheap (up to RSD800)
These prices are based on the cost of a three-course meal for one including half a bottle of house wine or equivalent.
Kraljevina/Que Pasa?
Part of the Hotel Aleksandar Palas, these two restaurants offer diners the choice of sophisticated national cuisine in Kraljevina and more laid-back but equally good quality dining in Que Pasa?, which has more of a Mediterranean vibe to it. The latter serves as a café and lounge bar, while at night it doubles as a Latino-style club.
Dijagonala 2.0
2.0 is easily the most exciting dining experience in the city. Hosting Belgrade’s hippest movers, shakers, and creative types, the music is thrilling and the décor sexy. As for the food, start with an astonishing neo-Serb antipasto misto of carpaccio of calf’s heart, cured whale tongue and delicate burek (pastry), before trying spicy Balkan sausage stuffed with cheese and melt-in-your-mouth cevapcici (kebab).
Zaplet
Serving an extensive menu that includes traditional Serbian food as well as international classics, this is one of the city's best restaurants and is deservedly popular with locals. Masterminded by Vladimir Melentijević, the son of Tito’s head chef, Zaplet is one of Belgrade’s elegant choices, but with an adventurous approach to Serbian cuisine.
Reka
For a novel mix of live music (including classical, rock and roll, and Balkan) and delicious food on the riverfront, head to Reka. By the end of the night everyone is on their feet dancing and the beautiful young things of Belgrade come here to start their evening. As for the menu, it’s full of finely cooked Mediterranean-style dishes and plenty of fish.
Šaran
Šaran, which translates to ‘carp’, is another fish restaurant on the Zemun waterfront. A lively meeting place, they serve all kinds of seafood in a stylish, buzzing setting. The terrace is very pleasant, with overhanging timber beams and pretty lamps. It also has live music most nights.
Zabar
A number of restaurants along the banks of the Danube are in the style of riverboats. One of the most charming is Zabar. Sit by the window amongst the wooden panelling décor and be sure to have the mixed platter to start, which includes cured meats, traditional Serbian cheeses and breads. As for the main, it has to be fish of the day, delightfully fresh and prepared to your taste.
Korcagin
Soviet aficionados will appreciate this old kafana (Serbian bistro) which is full of Communist novelties including busts, flags, posters and books. A young crowd predominates, with live music in the evenings and decent bar food and Serbian cuisine. The local bands often make a night here a raucous affair.
? (Kafana Znak Pitanja)
This 19th-century tavern is located close to the Orthodox Cathedral. Its unusual name (signposted only as “?”) dates back well over 100 years when the proprietor had to swiftly remove the sign to avoid the wrath of the church who didn’t like the proximity of the tavern distracting would-be worshippers. The temporary question mark has been used ever since. It's popular with locals and visitors alike and serves a great traditional menu.
Šešir Moj
This fantastic, homely restaurant is one of many serving national cuisine on the wonderful cobbled street of Skadarska in the old bohemian quarter. It serves classic Serbian soup, generous portions of cevapcici (Balkan kebab-style minced meat) and traditional salads and bread. Meanwhile, the setting is of faded glory with timber dados, framed paintings and dozens of plants.
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